What do you mean by milling machine


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Salü together,
the next purchase will probably be a milling machine.

What should I pay attention to so as not to waste money unnecessarily?

Used with accessories would probably be the best, because the prices for accessories, especially when it comes to milling, can quickly exceed the new value of the machine.

Thanks !!!

Dirk) (-:

The first counter-question must naturally be:

what do you want to do with it?

the second automatically:

what can / do you want to spend?

G'day ...
I will pass the question on to a work colleague of mine on Monday, whose HOBBY: shock: is it to build milling yourself.
I prefer to stay with Qen ...: D

The first counter-question must naturally be:

what do you want to do with it?

What I can think of then.
Rather not mill off an engine block at the top.

the second automatically:

what can / do you want to spend?

Hard to say.
Let's say around 2500 euros.
Just to throw a number into the room to have a basis for discussion.




mmmmmmmhh: whistle:

Hello Dirk,

do you mean something? : D
http://www.ebay.de/itm/CNC-Frase-Baschineungszentrum-AXA-VSC-2-/300747939390?pt=Industriemaschinen&hash=item4605f95e3e

Hello Dirk,

do you mean something? : D
http://www.ebay.de/itm/CNC-Frase-Baschineungszentrum-AXA-VSC-2-/300747939390?pt=Industriemaschinen&hash=item4605f95e3e


That would be too small for me personally: Oberl:
Greeting
BOT: D

Hello Dirk,

do you mean something? : D
http://www.ebay.de/itm/CNC-Frase-Baschineungszentrum-AXA-VSC-2-/300747939390?pt=Industriemaschinen&hash=item4605f95e3e

: laugh out loud1: I'll call you to bring you in. We'll both manage it then. : five:

If you want something "clever", take a look here first and get used to the prices:

http://www.wabeco-remscheid.de/

If that is too expensive and / or too small and therefore the Chinese origin (and also the achievable precision) briefly (or "secondary"):

http://www.optimum-maschinen.de/produkte/fraesmaschinen/index.html

You probably won't get anything smart for two-five. At least nothing new.

Sometimes (rarely) there are "best leftovers" from some model builder's widow in the bay - but also hundreds who are crazy about it.

If you want something "clever", take a look here first and get used to the prices:

http://www.wabeco-remscheid.de/

If that is too expensive and / or too small and therefore the Chinese origin (and also the achievable precision) briefly (or "secondary"):

http://www.optimum-maschinen.de/produkte/fraesmaschinen/index.html

You probably won't get anything smart for two-five. At least nothing new.

Sometimes (rarely) there are "best leftovers" from some model builder's widow in the bay - but also hundreds who are crazy about it.

I asked about Wabeco lathes for a long time.
After that, however, it became a small optimum, which works really great after some rework and 2 complaints.

I don't think much of the Wabeco price / performance ratio.

I also have the optimum catalogs at home, but they don't contain tips for the "milling beginner". When shooting, I had a professional on hand who could help me with any questions.

Dirk) (-:

I asked about Wabeco lathes for a long time.
After that, however, it became a small optimum, which works really great after some reworking and 2 complaints.

I don't think much of the Wabeco price / performance ratio.

That's why it always depends on what you want to do with it. The Optimum devices are not bad, but you have to make one or two compromises. Anyone who wants to use it to turn out a cylinder for new bushings or to use the milling machine to spindles will not be happy when the four hundredths of the running play above suddenly become six;).
For most work with not that high demands, however, they are quite useful and have gotten better in recent years (at least according to hearsay).

In any case, you could throw Wabeco at the feet of the Remscheiders if they would do such things ...



I also have the optimum catalogs at home, but they don't contain tips for the "milling beginner". When shooting, I had a professional on hand who could help me with any questions.


- how much travel do you need?
- which material (rather more aluminum or sometimes steel? - then a machine that is as heavy as possible is recommended)
- Do you want to crank forever or should a CNC upgrade be considered?
- do you have a 400V connection?

After you have lathe experience, you will not be surprised anymore that the bare machine price easily doubles with accessories until you can work with them properly?

Hello,

Since I have a Wabeco (F1210E with CNC conversion) I can say that it could sometimes be a bit bigger if you want to machine engine parts. You reach the limits of the traverse paths quite quickly. Reclamping is always time-consuming and prone to errors.
Optimum has somewhat larger machines on offer (leave out the CNC stories)

Kind regards
Manu

So I wouldn't buy a CNC machine. Firstly, it is not worthwhile for custom-made products / changes and secondly, the right thing can be expensive if something is wrong with the electronics. Older Conventional machines are sometimes "cheap" to get, but are correspondingly heavy and often use more electricity! You don't necessarily need your own foundation for a heavy bed, if the right one doesn't warp either.

In the north of us, Knuth (http://www.knuth.de/produkt,27514.html) is THE dealer with THE selection

Hello,

first I would set the cornerstones. Price and the price of the accessories. Then the speed of up to .. 50 rpm. are good for thread cutting, 3000 for small holes. Morse taper is better steep taper SK30 SK40. The clamping surface should already be 700x250mm. If the machine is also to be used as a drilling machine, pay attention to the quill stroke.

greeting
Walter

In the north of us, Knuth (http://www.knuth.de/produkt,27514.html) is THE dealer with THE selection

He has a lot of choice, but to find the one-eyed among the blind is a matter of luck - not only with milling machines, in general.
He sells a lot of Chinese goods, there is also a lot of rubbish there: upper left:
Greeting
BOT

That's why it always depends on what you want to do with it. The Optimum devices are not bad, but you have to make one or two compromises. If you want to use it to turn out a cylinder for new bushings or to use the milling machine for spindles, you will not be happy when the four hundredths of the running clearance above suddenly become six;).
For most work with not that high demands, however, they are quite useful and have gotten better in recent years (at least according to hearsay).

In any case, you could throw Wabeco at the feet of the Remscheiders if they would do such things ...



- how much travel do you need? Walter has already given a rough direction below that I'll keep in mind: 700x250
- which material (more aluminum or steel? - then a heavy machine is recommended): Also steel
- Do you want to crank forever or should a CNC upgrade be considered? no CNC !!
- do you have a 400V connection? Yes

After you have experience with turning machines, you will no longer be surprised that the bare machine price easily doubles with accessories until you can work with them properly?

I have to reckon with that.
But that comes piece by piece depending on the application.



That's exactly what I need brainstorming !!: applause:

Hello,

first I would set the cornerstones. Price and the price of the accessories. Then the speed of up to .. 50 rpm. are good for thread cutting, 3000 for small holes. Morse taper is better steep taper SK30 SK40. The clamping surface should already be 700x250mm. If the machine is also to be used as a drilling machine, pay attention to the quill stroke.

greeting
Walter


Thank you for the key points to be observed!
The machine should not be used as a drill.
Drill goes extra.

CNC has already been rejected here, but just because it's not worth it. As soon as it comes to workpieces where radii or bevels appear, that's not so bad. With a conventional one, that means a lot of re-clamping and a rotary table.
There are also options for conversion in the hobby sector that are well below the price range of industrial components.

A good source of information in general for machine metal processing is e.g. www.cncecke.de It's not just CNC.
But do not imagine any self-made portal systems if they do not weigh at least 10t and are accurate to y µ;)

Kind regards
Manu

Hello,

Morse taper is better steep taper SK30 SK40.
greeting
Walter

But you can't generalize like that, the handling of the Morse taper may not be that practical!

Hello Dirk
If you don't want to mill rocker arm trestles (the cheese milling machine is not good for this anyway)
Just give it to Google. Milling with a lathe. or at Zerspannungsbude.net
you get info. all you need is a clamping bracket, cross table or rotary table.
You can also work on little things like quickly milling off a fork bridge.
should it be precise anyway, the specialist is in demand. even if you don't have to have a milling machine
definitely something good to come out of it.

greeting
Roland

- Do you want to crank forever or should a CNC upgrade be considered?

Feed or rapid traverse, but that has nothing to do with CNC control: top: every better (not quite so old) conventional machine has that.

I will now also write something that you hear often enough here on other topics, even if I do not make myself more popular: "You can simply buy a milling machine and get started, forget about it, let a professional do it!"

I don't mean that yet, but otherwise it's not a teaching profession. Of course, you can just start milling, but if you have no idea about cutting speeds, suitable tools, etc. you can break more than you love.

Hello,

A Deckel FP1 is the right machine for building motorcycles. Mills horizontally and vertically. Is it used and brought even more precisely than a new one from China. The problem is the weight of 800 kg. Then only a FP2 with 1.4t would be better. A vice, rotary table, boring head and chuck are really expensive, although larger dimensions are cheaper than small ones for handicraft needs. The drive, if possible, with gear (three-phase current) or DC motor without gear. A cutter head of 50mm or 80mm is recommended and the motor should be able to do that. What is bad about my machine is a feat when it comes to milling. The chips fly in all directions and I don't even like to think about liquid cooling of the milling cutters. Is better solved with the lid.

greeting
Walter

....... A good source of information in general for machine metalworking is e.g. www.cncecke.de (http://www.cncecke.de) It's not just CNC.
But don't imagine any self-made portal systems if they don't weigh at least 10t and are accurate to y µ;)

Kind regards
Manu

Thanks for link.
I'll rummage around until I know roughly what I want and can afford it.

Dirk) (-:

Hello,

Walter actually said the right thing. The "old cover FP 1" is the classic machine for learning, practicing and still high quality and accurate. Something like that lasts 40-50 years with good care. If you can shoot something cheap from a workshop liquidation or bankruptcy, take it.


Greetings Thomas

Hello,

Walter actually said the right thing. The "old lid FP 1" is the classic machine for learning, practicing and still high quality and accurate. Something like that lasts 40-50 years with good care. If you can shoot something cheap from a workshop liquidation or bankruptcy, take it.


Greetings Thomas

The FP1 has a high "cult status" and is still traded at sometimes extreme prices even in the case of bankruptcy sales. (Maybe it is because they were built like the full swing cows in Munich ..). Reasonable specimens with SK40 mounts are unfortunately rarely available for less than € 4K. Besides lid, there were many other European manufacturers who built good milling machines, so you'd better look for something broader if you want to get a bargain.

With a used industrial machine you are generally well served. But you should pay attention to the condition of the gears, spindles and guides and also see what accessories are included. At least a couple of suitable collets and milling adapters should be included, otherwise you will end up in real money.

Greeting,

Bastian

As far as the condition is concerned, you should take a close look at it, I absolutely agree with the machine builder. Regrinding of guides is also not particularly cheap and, depending on the application, they can also have partial defects (worn-in areas) that can no longer be compensated with the adjustment strips.

Kind regards
Manu

Just have a look here:
http://www.cncecke.de
There under hobby machines or purchase advice,
or
http://forum.zerspanungsbude.net/index.php
or
http://www.plexxart.at/bastelstube/index.php

There is expert advice there

greeting
Lars

Hello: happy:

First I want to get rid of that this is a really very interesting forum
is, especially for me as a technician: aetsch:

I've also dealt with the topic of milling machines for a long time because I want to buy one myself.
Take a look at ### SPAM removed, Hans #### over.
This website offers a lot of information and interesting products in the field of milling machines -> also for beginners: ---)

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